Turkey2010

Hello Istanbul, you are stunning

Darryl and Pamela's first full day in Istanbul. Pam's camera did not stop clicking and Darryl is having a hard time trying to describe the beauty and intrigue  of this city of 17 million.

Their hotel, The Ottoman Imperial,  is S_M_A_C_K in the middle of history. Across the street from Hagia Sofia, originally a 4th century Greek Orthodox Church, then converted to a Mosque and finally a Museum. This is where the day started. Billy Joel picked them up at 9am after their Mediterranean style breakfast of coffee, cheeses, olives, pastries, eggs, fruit etc.

 


  After Hagia Sofia, off to the Blue Mosque, built in the 17th Century.

 

Probably the most famous Mosque, it gets it's name from from the beautiful Iznic tiles that cover the interior walls. It is still an active Mosque today so here we have to remove out shoes and place a scarf on my shoulders.

D&P were blown away by the beauty and serenity of the building with it's six Minarets.

 
 

Next it is off to a ceramic store where they carry the "Master" works of famous Turkish Master Potter Galip. The detail is amazing. There is one of his students working here, a master in his own right, who shows P&D how to make a pot in about 4 minutes..it is like he is creating magic. From this lump of clay..

 

to this...and wheel is foot operated..no electricity for this Master Potter

"Oh..I think I'll take up pottery when I get home" squeals Pammie!! Darryl shoots daggers this time, "Enough hobbies already Pamela" he says...."why not take up housekeeping?" D&P would have loved to purchase a piece by the Master Galip but the prices are a wee bit beyond their bank accounts allowances. Besides the two couldn't agree on a piece they both loved so they left empty handed.

Next stop..right outside the shop...The Hippodrome..or what is left of it. This is where the chariot races would have been held etc. There is only the center section now and even there there are only a few of the decorative pieces. There is The Obelisk of Theodosius brought from Egypt as a gift and erected in the 390A.D.  .. on the bottom stand is a depiction of how it was transferred

There is also another brick obelisk that was once covered in Bronze from top to Bottom. The bronze was taken and melted during one of the Crusades!

OH.."off we go to the Cystern" says Billy Joel

Along the way they pass a simple broken stone with a plastic coated sign hanging by it. "All Roads lead to Rome?" askes BJ of the traveling Canucks..."No..they lead to Constantinople (Istanbul today)" This marker was where all distances of the empire were measured..

"WOW" says Darryl, "that's pretty cool"

On they wander to the Cistern. Pammie is thinking..."how interesting could a water storage source be? Isn't it lunch time yet?" She sucks it's up and down they go to the Cistern. "OMG" cries Darryl. "OMG" echos Pam "this is surreal! Look at the lighting" she exclaimed. And out came the camera.

And so it was they walked through the soaring arches of The Cisterns that once held the water that was used to water the gardens of Topkapi Palace. It is 70 meters wide and 140 meters long and held 80,000 cubic meters of water. Hundreds of pillars hold up the arched ceiling which is just beneath a bustling modern city above. "Hard to describe" says Darryl. "Don't worry" says Pammie "I'll throw in a few photos" There are two pillars that were used and were a bit short so they used to carved heads of Medusa from another ancient location to prop them up...

 
 

"I'd love one of those in my garden" quips Pammie

Archeological overload. Darry's perky mind is almost exploding with information and visuals. "Time for Turkish Pizza" announces Billy Joel. "Perfect" squeal the two and off they go down a side street lined with tables

Pide...Turkish pizza..

Cold Efes all around.....

What a day. D&P bid Billy Joel goodbye 'till tomorrow and head back to their hotel. Everything they saw today is minutes from their hotel..amazing.

Poor D&P crash for a couple of hours and then awaken refreshed and ready to face the evening and find dinner. They could get used to this lifestyle!!!

They come upon this cool looking restaurant. You can sit on the floor cushions or on chairs ... "Chairs" states Darryl...my back won't hold out after today if I sit on the floor. So hey sit at a table and order some Mezze (cold appies) , beer, bread and calamari that melted in their mouths. "Crazy day" states Darryl, "Uber crazy day" agrees Pammie.

Time for bed. Lyi Geceler Darryl, Lyi Geceler Pammie ... sleep well..tomorrow is another busy day!!!

Turkish Delight

Frau Langendorf's driver came and picked Darryl and Pammie up in the morning and took them to Hamburg Airport for their  flight to Istanbul. Checked in, Pamela grateful they had decided to buy full fare tickets like real people, and headed to the gate area. Sitting there Darryl noticed that this one little man sitting in front of him with his back to him. This guy was totally nervous and his head seemed to be on a swivel like in the movie "The Exorcist". He kept looking around checking things out. Darryl started to get antsy but then..lots of people start to get nervous when they travel..."Stop profiling Darryl" says Pammie. So Darryl settles down trusting that Pammie knows what she is about in this scene. Suddenly two police officers walk up to the dude with his passport and say "Kommen sie mit!" (Come with us). Darryl just about jumped up and down and yelled at Pamela.."Told you so!!!" Pamela shot daggers. "Probably being deported" says Darryl, "you know..Persona non Gratis!. Glad he is not Turkish and on our flight" says Darryl

P&D settle down again and wait for the flight to be called...they are traveling on Turkish Airlines. Finally they get their seats called and the two adventurers head off to the aircraft. Warm welcomes from the crew...friendly smiles all around. Down the aisle they trundle to their row...and yeah...you guessed it...guess who is sitting beside them...Persona Non Gratis!!! What are the chances??? D&P sit down and realize this dude has been through the wringer ..cause he has not had a shower in about a year apparently!! "Oh NO!" squeaks Pam.. "I can sit here for two hours..and the flight looks full." Pam goes to ask the crew if they can switch seats to two open seats near the back "Please sit down now..we are taking off". Pamela frets ... BO is something she can't handle well at all...suddenly the same crew member comes over and says..you want to sit there? Go now please. No need to ask twice and P&D move back a couple of rows. They felt bad for the poor guy but it was a matter of survival!!

After that P&D felt so spoiled..traveling economy class they don't expect too much service...so when a menu arrived Pam is excited. A choice of hot meals, bar service, not stop attention! "This is like we used to have on AC" says Pam. "North American airlines need to take a lesson from Turkish Airlines ... this is totally old school. Dear Readers...if you ever have a chance to travel TA...do it..amazing service.

Next stop Turkish customs. Darryl has images of Midnight Express in his mind as they approach the stern looking passport dude. He takes their passports, looks at them, looks 
at D&P, looks back and shakes his head at the passports. He looks at Darryl and says "Mr Pantyhose you have no visa". Darryl's heart sank thinking he is himself going to become the newest Persona non Gratis. Pammie to the rescue..."We were told we get the visas on arrival" she says. "Ah" says Passport Dude.."over there". D&P heave signs of relief and head over to Visa Dude. Pamela says it should be about $25 lire each according to their travel agent. When Visa dude says "125Lire please".. D&P don't even try to question it at this point..pull out their Visa to pay to be quickly told "No Visa for Visa" ... well alllllrighty then..cashola is it! Off they go to Passport dude with their pretty visa stamp in their passports. Pam refrained from asking for an extra stamp for her scrapbook as they Visa stamp is like a postage stamp..pretty cool. Stamp stomp stamp...and they are through and officially on their adventure of Turkish Delight!

Bags are waiting...and they gallop through the doors into a gaggle of guides with name cards..."Ack" say the travelers...where is our Guide Dude? Pammie leaves Darryl standing guard by the bags and goes hunting. Sure enough she finds a Sea Song guide and looks questioningly at him..he turns around and there is the name...Pantyhose!! Pamela is a little in awe...their guide is actually Billy Joel...

Pam brings him back to Darryl and intros are made, nice guy, perfect English, should be great! They head out to the car, supposedly a deluxe air-conditioned car. BJ introduces the driver, to become known as Magic Murat from his ability to appear and disappear as they need transportation around Istanbul for the next few days. "WOW! Cool ride" says Darryl!! An airconditioned Mercedes mini bus with seats fro 6 plus the guide and driver. All for the two adventurers. And they are off...to the Ottoman Imperial Hotel. A restored Ottoman house boutique hotel on the Golden Horn. Darryl and Pammie are in love, small rooms but beautiful with all the amenities.

BJ says he will walk them to the area down the road where there are some restaurants to eat dinner. The restaurant is called the "Pudding Shop" . Pam is worried..she is not a big fan of pudding...and why on earth would she want to eat pudding for dinner? Once they arrive Pam understands...there is no correlation between the name and the food. This is a local style of eating where there is a selection of dishes...you choose what you want and they bring it to you

 

After dinner they bid Billy Joel goodbye and head off on their own to explore the area around the hotel. D&P have arrived in Istanbul during the Ramadan period and as they leave the restaurant it was time for the break of fast. The area near the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia Mosque is packed with families gathering to have picnics and enjoy their first meal of the day. Children are playing, adults laughing and sharing stories, Vendors are doing a brisk trade with roasted corn on the cob, pretzel like breads, popcorn etc. Others are selling spinning tops for the kids and other trinkets and toys. D&P are captivated by the environment of festivities. They wander down a little shopping area and look at beautiful carpets, ceramics and other amazing treasures. Pammie can feel her credit card start to vibrate!

 
On the way back to the hotel D&P pass an open air restaurant and see their first Whirling Dervish.

D&P will see a Dervish show on their very last night before returning to Istanbul. "Can't wait D" says Pam..."that is the most beautiful thing I have seen in ages. They whirl with almost no movement"

Time to go home to their hotel...good night Darryl, good night Pammie

Into the Kobra Lair

Talk about hung over!!! OMG Poor old Darryl (well he is 60 now) gets up at some point in the early morning, cracks open one eye, takes his meds, sees Pam is still in LaLa land, turns over and goes back to bed wishing that he had not finished off everyone's Kyrgyzstan Cognac last night! 12:15pm and he manages to get both eyes opened at one time.

"No harbour tour this morning?" asks Frau Langendorf. "Not a hope in hell" whimpers Darryl as he gropes his way to the Cappuccino machine. "Shrimp and Lobster?" asks Aisat of Kyrgyzstan. "Shrimp please" answers Pam...."Toast" murmels Darryl. "Eggs?" asks Frau Langendorf..."Coffee" answers Darryl and so it went.

With breakfast over, serenity returned to the old farmhouse. P&D were picked up by Mariam the Kobra and her son Dr Mario Bros. Pam & Darryl sit in the back of the football-mobile. While Mariam the Kobra and Pammie get caught up Darryl was feeling greener and greener and wondering why everyone drives stick shift in Germany...they obviously were not thinking of hung over Canucks! You see, on normal days (whatever that is)  Darryl can get motion sick in the back seat but being in the back seat of the football-mobile this day was like riding on the Mad Mouse ride for poor Darryl. He looks at the back windows and in a panic realizes they don't open!!!! Shit! Am I going to make it, he wonders. "let's go see Dr Mario's hospital" suggests Mariam the Kobra. "Sure" pipes Pam, ugggg thinks Darryl.

Against all odds they arrive at the lair of the Kobras with Darryl still intact. Fresh air at last thinks Darryl...I will survive after all and he starts to perk up. In they go and meet The Kobras hubby KHK and their youngest off spring Luigi. "Would you like a drink" asks KHK. "White wine please" answers Pam, "Water with gas please" answers Darryl deciding to take it easy. The Kobra gives Darryl the evil eye "Sorry" explains Darryl "but have you ever tried Kyrgyzstan Cognac?" A few bubbles later and Darryl is feeling much improved and settles with a beer, so all is well in the Lair.

"Dinner is served" announces The Kobra..and what a delicious dinner it is. Boccocini and Tomato salad and bacon wrapped dates. YUMMO! This is followed by tasty roasted chickens with rice and a wonderful cream sauce with mushrooms and bacon that was to die for! All served up by KHK

Time to meet The Pig and The Slut..the other members of the Kobra lair. Here is The Pig..so named for his very pink appearance as a kitty

 

The Slut...who like to stay out all night and party...on the kitty Reeperbhan

So here they are..all sitting around the table after dinner. Darryl looks at The Kobra and wonders why she suddenly decided to put on a Davie Crockett party hat. Was she leaving us he wonders. Suddenly the "hat" purrs as The Kobra gives it a treat...

 

"Oh it's just Pig" explains The Kobra. Pig had just jumped vertically from the floor to her shoulders in a single leap to inspect the evening menu's leftovers.

Suddenly Pammie jumps up and dives under The Kobras bed. "Where is she" she squeals. Darryl is looking dazed and confused, as are Luigi and KHK. (Dr Mario Bros has departed for his home at this point otherwise he may have considered medical attention). Only The Kobra seems unconcerned at Pammie's antics. "What are you up to Pam" begs Darryl. "I am looking for Emerenta!" states Pam as if crawling around under new friends beds is the normal thing to do. "and there is no fire and no cookies here either" wails Pam. The Kobra turns to Darryl and says "You too?" Darryl gasps.."U2???" and dives under the bed too..no they are not there either..will have to wait until Istanbul.

"Can't believe Emerenta did not fly in on her magic carpet like she promised" sniffs Pammie

(NOTE: If you are reading this blog and just read that last paragraph and have NO CONCEPT of what happened..it's OK...very few people understand @Ireland1 @mariamkobras and @emerenta 's antics  ...you have to be up late at night on Twitter LOL)

Time to head back to the Farmhouse

Good bye to the Kobra Lair, to The Kobra and Luigi and KHK, the Pig and the Slut

Two new friends says goodbye until next time

 

Mariam The Kobra, being her sweet self,  returns the wandering Canuckleheads to the Farmhouse. Final hugs and tears.

Good night P&D..sleep tight..

tomorrow...the adventure begins

Do they do anything but eat and drink???

Slept in late (o big surprise there). Ahh..thank God for Lattees. Dinner was discussed over breakfast and Lobster just seemed right...with smoked salmon and shrimp appies. While D&P had slept off a slight hangover, Maid Marion went off to the fish street on the docks to pick up cooked lobsters and smoked salmon.

Meanwhile back at Flottbek, Pamela is getting rather excited at the prospect of meeting her long time Twitter cyber buddie and Mimosa Club member, Mariam the Kobra. So what should she expect? From online conversation she is expecting a friendly, funny, sweet and lovable person to drive up the road to Flottbek to pick her up for lunch. Pammie goes to the window about a squillion times to see if she is there...Darryl quips that she is wearing out the carpet. Eye daggers. "There she is" squeals Pam and grabs her bag and blows out of the house. Pam runs down the stairs and  opens the door and is immediately embraced into the biggest warmest hug ever...she was right...Mariam the Kobra is a bundle or friendly warmth. "I can't believe we are finally meeting...an official Mimosa Club Tweetup!" Smiles and goodbye waves to Darryl hanging out the upstairs window..and they are off on their lunch date.

YakYakYak..like long lost friends as they weave their way through teeny streets and up and down steep hills on their way to the restaurant. M the K has picked a traditional Hamburger scene...right on the river Elbe where every ship coming and going is greeted with a "welcome" or a "goodbye" song and flags go up and down masts  like a brides nighty in acknowledgment.

This is an old restaurant and some of the waiters are just as old we think... they are highly trained in the act of 'ignorment' and 'no-eye-contact'. Pamela says..."they would make great flight attendants...they could walk down an aircraft aisle and never get an order with their skills" Pamela feels a challenge coming on..."I will make him smile before we are done with lunch" she states. Mariam the Kobra laughs at her innocence...Pamela the Chatty vows to break his frozen face..check it out..he was just behind us  

Marion the Kobra is skeptical...

There was also another little meetup of the Traveling Mae Monkeys...they got a little out of control and drank too much beer...

this was the sad result..

 

The day progressed so well..the sun shone, friends bonded, Mae Monkeys got blottoed on beer, the waiter smiled and actually communicated and made eye contact (don't ever doubt the power of Chatty Pammie!)

Then it was time to do what Mimosas do well..SHOP!  Pammie need some makeup and Mariam the Kobra needs some groceries cause she sure ain't feeling up to cooking for KHK after the long lunch. Another challenge for the girls as they encourage a new sales assistant in the make up store..she is worried that she cannot sell us makeup and perfumes...HA!..no worries..we are Mimosa's and we will SHOP!!! Leaving her with a new found confidence that she will be an amazing sales person..the two Mimosas wander off to eat some ice cream. Pammie is dreaming of plain hazelnut..two balls...she has memories of the heavenly creaminess from long gone layovers in Mainz...and it did not fail..creamy, hazelnutty and ohhh so scrumptious. Mariam the Kobra had other ideas...

These people know how to eat ice-cream in Germany!!!

Time for some farewell hugs and Pammie is back at Flottbek. Until tomorrow when the Pantyhose's visit the Kobras for dinner.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Darryl goes with Maid Marion to buy the rest of the groceries for dinner. "Organic" states MM "The only way to go". They buy a basketful plus bubbly water for Darryl. After all the shopping they two buddies sit down at a sidewalk cafe for Cappuccinos and and half a biscuit..don't ask why they only got a half a biscuit...it's a mystery to this day. Back to the farmhouse and while MM starts to prep for dinner Darryl catches a catnap.

Pam arrives home and wakes up Darryl..dinner time!! Up they go and ..oh what a feast. Fresh Lobsters served cold with cognac butter and cocktail sauce. So fresh they could have been straight out of the waters of Nova Scotia .. which they actually were...GO CANADA!!.

Smoked salmon and teeny shrimp salad round it out. "What a feast" mumbled Darryl with his mouth full..."any more lobster 'pate' ?" French Chablis and Champagne..everyone was there.. Darryl and Pammie, Frau Langendorf,

Maid Marion, chef extraordinaire

and last but not least Aisat of Kyrgyzstan

all munching down on their seafood extravaganza. Johnny Toothpik and Patto back in Vancouver...eat your hearts out!!! Dessert...Pflaume-Kuchen and Kyrgyzstan Cognac. "Are we getting flutered Pam" asks Darryl..."Not me Darryl, no cognac for me" says Pammie. Midnight turned to 1 o'clock, then 2, by that time they had all planned their next vacation. Look out Kyrgyzstan..here we come! Next may the fumbling group will all take Aisat of Kyrgyzstan home for a visit. "It's no problem, my father has a mini bus" states little Aisat. "OK we go!" states Frau Langendorf and everyone nodded their heads in excitement. Was t the alcohol talking? Maybe...maybe not...after all this is two crazy Canucks you are talking about.

Pammie and Darryl float down the spiral staircase to their bed pondering Kyrgyzstan

Good Friday...

"Today let's go see the Miniature Railway Museum" suggests Frau Langendorf.

"What?" asks Darryl.

"Ja, the Railway Museum with miniature trains" says Frau Langendorf, "It's world famous".

"Never heard of it" say Maid Marion and Pam in unison.

"OK, then we go" states Frau Langendorf.

So off we go with Marion Andretti riding the clutch all the way. The adventurers didn't know what to expect, and they definitely didn't expect the long line ups (remember...world famous). "Don't worry" says Frau Langendorf, "I have a cane". In we all go ahead of the line ups..all thanks to the cane.

"OMG!!!" say Darryl and Pamela excitedly, "this is incredible!!" And so it was...Miniature cities of the world, harbours, Swiss mountains two floors high, and a squillion little teeny tiny people. You have to go here next time you visit Hamburg..

A concert..apparently sold out..

and with that many people you need someplace to go pee... "little people have to go somewhere" quips Darryl. "Shut up Darryl and enjoy the exhibition" Pam sighs

and if you get sick...you need medical assistance...there is always the red cross

Do you love all this teeny stuff? You can see my flickr group of all the photos I took at the museum HERE

Two hours later they were on their way to the Reichshof Hotel which the Langendorf Family owned until recently. It's like stepping back in time to an era of elegance and charm. When Pam was Maid Marion's nanny the hotel was a huge part of the Langendorf everyday life. They had coffee in the Bistro Bar and the remaining old staff from the Langendorf days come by and say hello to Frau L...she is treated like royalty..obviously a well loved boss in her time. Darryl and Pam take turns going exploring with Maid Marion, bittersweet for Pam as the memories flooded back of elegant dinners in the dining room's private rooms, New Year's Eve dazzling Gala Balls and everyday visits. Walking into the elegant formal dining room

Pamela reminisced about how the house band would play "When Irish Eyes are Smiling" any time she walked into the restaurant. You can see the private rooms perched above the main floor...that is where the family hosted any private parties they had at the hotel.

One incredible thing that you don't see too often today, let alone back in 1975 is the hotels Auto Silo. Just the second of it's kind ever built at the time...you would drive your car onto a rotating disc, get out and leave the keys with the garage worker. They they would swing the car around..and it would be moved onto the elevator..and then rise up to the location selected and unload it into a "hole" until you needed it again. "Cool" says Darryl..."Many accidents until we got used to it"  laughed Frau Langendorf.

Back they toodled to the 'Farmhouse', cat nap and clean up for dinner. Pam and Darryl are taking Maid Marion & Frau L. out for dinner to the Rive Bistro on the Elbe with an amazing view over the harbour. Great food, service and view..perfect evening! Cappuccinos and complimentary chocolate and  after dinner. "First time I've seen American Express chocolates" quips Pamela. "Oh" said Maid Marion "there is a possibility they only take AmEx". Pamela just about spit her coffee across the table.. "NO..that would be ridiculous" says Pam, "I bet you 5Euros they take Visa too...everywhere takes Visa...don't they?" "You are on" says MM and they shake on it.

Not only did they NOT take Visa...Pammie owed MM 5 Euros!

Saved by Frau Langendorf and her AmEx .. all debts were settled the following day.

Home via the notoriously colourful Reeperbhan..every man's fantasy...perhaps? The oggle, like stunned tourists that they are, from the safety of the car...hookers, johns, sex clubs and even a street where only men are allowed....no women permitted unless you are working!!! "Do you want us to drop you off" asks Pammie looking directly into Darryl's soul. "Um..no thanks sweetie...they would probably just blow me out the other side anyway"

Back to the house and into our beds....tomorrow Frau Kobras!!!